Back to purism, pure and simple. Returning to her namesake brand after an eight-year absence, house founder Jil Sander swept aside the often experimental ways of her acclaimed successor Raf Simons (now the couturier at Christian Dior in Paris) and plied her signature minimalist tailoring. The collection was crisp, graphic and youthful - and the men's wear crowd issued a cheer when the shy German designer briefly emerged for a bow behind a scrim of white columns.
She opened her brisk show with a sleeveless navy frock coat over a white, short-sleeved nerd shirt and shorts, setting her main agenda: Plays on proportion, and a mix of formal and sporty. Tailored jackets and macs were either trim and elongated, or abbreviated and flaring. Trousers came slim, cuffed and cropped well above the ankle, while low-slung board shorts were cut in suiting fabrics.
She opened her brisk show with a sleeveless navy frock coat over a white, short-sleeved nerd shirt and shorts, setting her main agenda: Plays on proportion, and a mix of formal and sporty. Tailored jackets and macs were either trim and elongated, or abbreviated and flaring. Trousers came slim, cuffed and cropped well above the ankle, while low-slung board shorts were cut in suiting fabrics.
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